Illegal skin lighteners

The supply of illegal skin lightening creams is an ongoing community safety issue. This page deals with some frequently asked questions about fade creams, skin toners, bleaching and whitening agents and tells you what trading standards have been doing.

Who uses them?

They are usually marketed towards women from a variety of ethnic backgrounds. In Southwark the primary users are likely to be black Afro Caribbean women. We are now seeing some creams being marketed towards men.

Why do they want to use them?

Different users will have different reasons. Sometimes it may be used to try and deal with localised blemishes but often an overall lighter appearance is desired. This desire is driven by complex social, cultural and historical factors.

Why are some types of these products banned?

Because they contain ingredients that have been proven to be harmful to health and cause permanent skin damage.

What are the ingredients that are harmful?

Hydroquinone used to be the most common ingredient. It is now banned for use in many countries around the world including Britain and the other EU states. The US government is proposing to ban it too.  

Ammoniated mercury has also been found. Mercury is also banned from use in any cosmetics as it is so toxic. We have also found antiseptic soaps containing mercury in the form of mercuric iodide.

Potent topical corticosteroids, often simply referred to as steroids such as clobetasol propionate and fluocinonide are also frequently found. There are legitimate medicinal uses for such steroids but due to potentially harmful side effects their use should be strictly controlled by a doctor or pharmacist. In the UK any product containing these must be licensed and should only be available on prescription, they should never be on sale in cosmetics shops.  

What are the harmful effects of using these?

Hydroquinone

This inhibits production of the pigment melanin which gives skin its colour. However melanin is vital to protect the skin against UV radiation so your body will over compensate by producing more melanin.

• This results in a darker patchier appearance developing
• It damages the elastin strands in skin causes premature aging and weakening of the skin
• It can cause neuropathy, a disease of the nervous system
• It can damage your liver
• It increases the risk of the development of skin cancer from UV radiation

Mercury

This toxic element accumulates in the body and damages the kidneys, liver and brain causing a host of serious and potentially fatal health problems.

Topical corticosteroids

• Misuse will cause skin thinning, stretch marks, bruising and broken veins
• Eczema could flare up
• There is an increased risk of infection, sores and boils
• Prolonged use will affect the release of hormones that control and stabilise vital functions with very serious or life threatening consequences

Why are these products still manufactured if they are so dangerous?

Some countries have not banned hydroquinone or mercury in skin lighteners so it is legal to manufacture and supply them to supply in those countries.  

Steroid based creams can be supplied in the UK on prescription as they have legitimate medicinal uses, however they require a product licence and should not be found in cosmetic products. 

What should I do if I have been using these products?

Stop using them immediately. Consult your doctor if you are concerned about any skin damage or health problems.

Who enforces the law on these products?

Every local authority has a trading standards service which enforces consumer protection laws such as the safety regulations for cosmetics. Where steroid based creams are found the Medicines and Healthcare Products Regulatory Agency (MHRA) will be responsible as the products are classed as medicines.  

Southwark Council trading standards routinely works in partnership with the MHRA to enforce the laws. We carry out undercover test purchasing to check retailers are not selling illegal items and we carry out spot checks at businesses. We can seize any illegal items.

The council has also carried out community education work to try and educate users about the dangers of using illegal skin lighteners.  

What are the penalties for selling these illegal skin lighteners?

Traders could be fined and sent to prison. They could also have their assets taken if they have benefited from illegal activity. Any illegal products found can be seized by trading standards or the MHRA.

Why are shops still selling them?

We are doing our best to ensure they are not, we have advised all local traders so everyone knows the law. Sometimes it is simply a case of the businesses not checking that the stock they receive is legal. However, whilst there is a demand for these products some unscrupulous traders may sell it under the counter to make money, they simply don't care about the health of their customers.

Our under cover test purchases and inspections will detect this and we have prosecuted many businesses. The severe penalties imposed are now having a deterrent effect on other retailers.  For details of our prosecution results, see below.

Is there a list of banned products?

We have compiled a list of illegal skin lightening products found in Southwark, but there are hundreds of different brands from around the world.  Note that many of the leading brands have now been reformulated with new ingredients so anyone selling skin lighteners need to check the labelling and contact trading standards for advice if they have any questions.  Also note that some products are available in two or more versions depending on the countries they are intended to be marketed in.

Who has been prosecuted for selling these products in Southwark?

We have a list of Southwark businesses who have been previously convicted or are awaiting sentence. Cases can take over a year to complete from inspection to conviction, so action against other traders may still be pending. 

Who should I tell if I know someone is selling illegal skin lighteners?

Get in touch with Southwark Council trading standards in confidence.